Monday, August 20, 2007

Utah Day 4 - Westward Transition

Wednesday was a long day. It was very hot in the tent Tuesday night and I had a tough time falling asleep, and then I had insomnia and woke up at 5:30. One of the things one is meant to do when staying at Dead Horse Point State Park is see the sunrise/sunset. We missed the sunset due to the storms Tuesday evening, but I was awake to appreciate the sunrise. Since I was already up I walked over to the edge of the canyon and waited for the sun to come up, along with two mule deer who chomped away on their breakfast like I wasn’t even there. You know how sunsets happen pretty quickly once they get going? Sunrises are slower. Sadly I didn’t have the camera, but the sunrise was quite nice. After breakfast we broke camp and went to see the views from Dead Horse Point itself. Here is the story of the park, from the park website. "Before the turn of the century, mustang herds ran wild on the mesas near Dead Horse Point. The unique promontory provided a natural corral into which the horses were driven by cowboys. The only escape was through a narrow, 30-yard neck of land controlled by fencing. Mustangs were then roped and broken, with the better ones being kept for personal use or sold to eastern markets. Unwanted culls of "broomtails" were left behind to find their way off the Point. According to one legend, a band of broomtails was left corralled on the Point. The gate was supposedly left open so the horses could return to the open range. For some unknown reason, the mustangs remained on the Point. There they died of thirst within sight of the Colorado River, 2,000 feet below." The views were quite nice, so perhaps that's why the horses stayed? I think the vistas rival anything we saw at Canyonlands. Our plan today was to take the scenic route to Bryce Canyon National Park, with a lunch stop at Capital Reef National Park. We saw many interesting rock formations on the way, but I don’t have any photos because at some point you have to stop pulling off the road every time you see something interesting, and we had reached that point the previous afternoon. One of the interesting things we saw was a tiny cabin from the 1800s, which I swear couldn’t have been more than 10x10’ but in which 10 people had lived. I can’t figure out how they could have fit on the floor to sleep! Incredible how different things are today, at least in most places. We didn’t really see much of Capital Reef, but we did see some petroglyphs, and there were some impressive rock formations. Fruita is an old Mormon settlement along the river that runs through the park, and the early settlers planted hundreds of fruit trees, which are still there and available for public picking. My mother picked some peaches, and perhaps the best part of the park was eating lunch in a shaded grove of huge cottonwood trees. On our way out of the park we stopped at the Goosenecks Overlook, which looks down on Sulphur Creek. We then drove over a 9000+ foot pass and descended into Grand Staircase-Escalante National Monument. If you click on that link, you can see the part we saw, which was the stretch of Highway 12 from Boulder to Tropic. My recollection of this is a bit hazy because I kept falling asleep in the car (having gotten hardly any sleep the night before), but what I saw of it was quite beautiful. It stormed off and on, including while we were driving across a knife-edge ridge that was really only wide enough for the 2-lane road. I would not want to be piloting a giant RV through there, I tell you. We drove to Bryce hoping to get rooms at Ruby’s Inn, just outside the park, but they were all full and we ended up driving back to Tropic and staying at the Pioneer Village Motel, which was serviceable though by no means luxurious. So, today was a transitional day and I’m sorry if it wasn’t as interesting as the others, but tomorrow Bryce Canyon will knock your socks off!

Friday, August 17, 2007

Utah Day 3 - Canyonlands

Tuesday morning dawned bright and sunny, and again we got moving early. We stopped at our campsite at Dead Horse Point State Park so that we could leave our camping supplies behind, which enabled us to travel in one car. Dave’s parents rented a giant SUV and all seven of us fit in there comfortably. As much as I’m down on large SUVs, I have to admit this car was pretty cushy. Tuesday was devoted to Canyonlands National Park. This is a huge park, and it’s largely undeveloped. We only went to the Island in the Sky District in the northeastern corner of the park, which is the most developed (not saying much – it’s still pretty wild). We had our picnic lunch at the White Rim Overlook, and then did the Grand View Point Drive and trail. And a grand view it is, everywhere you look. The roads at Canyonlands are on top of a large mesa surrounded by deep canyons (1000 ft. to the next level down) on both sides, which were carved by the Colorado River (on the east side) and the Green River (on the west). If one is ambitious one can drive a 4WD vehicle along the White Rim Road along the edge of the first step of the canyon. You can see the road in some of the photos if you look closely. We did not do that, of course. All of the above photos were taken on the Grand View Point Trail, which is an easy jaunt I would highly recommend. From this hike you can see a lot of complicated canyons, but no water. It’s presumably down there somewhere, but it’s so far down that you can't see it around the edges of the rocks. We finally saw some at the Green River Overlook. That’s the Green River there in the bottom, surrounded by actual green trees. We were impressed by this, having not seen water for days...
We also drove out to Upheaval Dome, which is a curiousity. How it formed is a mystery – whether it was an upheaval of salt (hence the white color) or the remnant of a meteor strike (which threw up the white salt) is still up for debate. Myself I prefer the latter hypothesis, it's more romantic.
The last thing we did at Canyonlands was the short hike to Mesa Arch. One can never have too many arches, and this is quite a nice one. You can look through the arch right down into the canyon. Along this hike there was a lot of cryptobiotic soil, which is unique to this region of Utah. The ground there is very rocky and sandy, so there isn’t much for plants to root into when their seeds land. Enter the cryptobiotic soil, which is a combination of cyanobacteria, algae, mosses, and lichens. Essentially it is living soil, and there are many signs warning people not to disturb it as it grows very slowly (go figure). It's the brown stuff that looks like burnt hamburger.
We then returned to our campsite and had dinner. Clouds gathered all around us and we watched some spectacular lightning shows. I love thunderstorms, and the lack of such weather excitement is one of the only faults I’ve found with living in Seattle. That and the price of real-estate. Anyway, we saw our fill of electricity on this trip! Tomorrow we’ll go on a long drive across Southern Utah, calling briefly at Capitol Reef National Park.

Thursday, August 16, 2007

Hey, Hey, We're the Monkeys!

Brief pause in the Utah footage - to be resumed tomorrow...
My Sockapalooza socks arrived yesterday, and I got Monkey socks! They came from Angela in Edmonton (no blog?), and they're great! They fit perfectly, and the yarn colors are perfect for me. And she sent Smarties, which I love and which are very hard to find in the US.

My favorite thing about my socks is how well they match my living room rug - isn't that great? I couldn't get a photo that really showed off the Monkey pattern, especially because the yarn is fairly complicated. I'm not sure what kind of yarn it is - perhaps Angela will chime in and let me know if I should wash my socks when the time comes. This was my first Sockapalooza and I'm really happy with how it turned out. Thanks again Angela, I love my socks!

Wednesday, August 15, 2007

Utah Day 2 - Arches National Park

Monday morning we woke up early, with the hypothesis that if we got moving early we could beat some of the heat. Ha! There is no beating the heat when it's going to be 107F! But we did try, so that's something. We spent all day Monday at Arches National Park, which is just three miles from Moab. Arches was one of the places I was most excited to see, and I was not disappointed (Aside from being too damn hot. That was the refrain of the day.). Our first hike was to Delicate Arch, where we saw our first lizard:
Here is Delicate Arch, which is the most famous of the arches, and the one on the Utah license plates: You can get right up close and personal with Delicate Arch, which we did:It's quite large when you get some people inside for scale (Can you see us in there?): However, it's not really that delicate, at least not compared to Landscape Arch (below) which is likely to collapse relatively soon.
It's hard to tell from this photo, but that arch is over 100m wide, making it by far the largest in the park. It's also considered the longest natural arch in the world. About 10 years ago a fairly sizable (ie many tons) piece of rock fell out from the bottom of Landscape Arch. Thus, you can no longer picnic underneath. Wise decision. It was very hot, and always nice to see the end of a trail looming: We also saw some rocks with very strong elephant characteristics (use your imagination):

Do you see them? How about here? These rock formations were right near what turned out to be my favorite arch, Double Arch: We also saw Balanced Rock: In fact we saw many rocks that appeared to be balancing quite precariously, but this is the famous one and apparently the only one that warrants a name.

All in all I really enjoyed Arches, but I think I would have had an even better time if it hadn't been as hot as it was. It was also very sunny, and there really isn't much shade, so it was hard to escape the heat. It's a small park that you can certainly see most of in a day unless you want to do some serious long hikes. Most of the arches are at the end of short trails that are reasonably flat, although the Delicate Arch Trail was 3 miles roundtrip with enough elevation gain that we noticed it, especially in the oppressive heat.

Tomorrow we leave the air-conditioned condo behind as we journey to Canyonlands, where we develop a new appreciation for wide-open spaces, and learn that my parents aren't keen on their only daughter leaning over cliff edges...won't you please join us? By which I mean, please come back tomorrow, not that you should join me in leaning over cliff edges, especially if you're scared of heights.

Tuesday, August 14, 2007

Utah Day 1 - Wedge Overlook

Finally, I'm going to show off all my beautiful Utah photos! The scenery was spectacular, more so every place we went (so you'll have to keep reading all week!). Dave and I left Seattle at 4:00am on Saturday morning, and drove to Salt Lake City via Washington, Eastern Oregon, and Southern Idaho. The drive took us hours and hours longer than Mapquest predicted, and by the time we got there we were pretty exhausted. I took some short catnaps, but Dave had to drive the whole way. Dave's parents had flown in earlier and we met them at the Hotel Monaco. It's a great hotel - I'd highly recommend it. It's very pet-friendly, and if you don't happen to have your pet with you, they have goldfish you can borrow for your room. Dave's parents had one, and he/she was quite cute. We had dinner there and breakfast the next morning, before beginning the drive down to Moab to meet my parents.
Dave suggested that we take a slight detour (Well, to be honest it was more than slight. Slight on the map perhaps, but not in the amount of time it took. But, that is neither here nor there, and it was lovely.) to the Wedge Overlook:This is in the middle of nowhere central Utah, off of a very long dirt road off of another long dirt road (hence the long detour). I believe the portion above is looking towards the Little Grand Canyon. Here's another view:You can see the tiny San Rafael River there in the bottom (in the green valley). It's amazing to consider that this little river carved out this immense canyon, but there you go. The area is called the San Rafael Swell, and it's my understanding that the land swelled up then the river carved down. There are so many places like this in Utah that it boggles the mind. One of the most amazing things about this area is that it isn't even a state park! It's just there, in the middle of nowhere, on BLM land. Here's another photo, for scale!On the drive back to the highway we saw many free-range cattle. God knows what they were finding to eat (and drink!), as grass seemed a bit thin on the ground. I particularly liked this cow, who was very cooperative during his photo shoot:He walked right over to the road and looked at me! Further down the road we saw our first petroglyphs and pictograms. Honestly I didn't know they were different until reading the interpretive sign at the turn-out. In case you also don't know, petroglyphs are carvings/etchings/chips in the rock, whereas pictographs are drawn or painted on the rock. These below are thus pictographs, although this particular rock had both types.At least some of the drawings were done by the Fremont Indians, which I was excited about since I live in the Fremont neighborhood of Seattle (probably not related, but I actually don't know).
After our little detour we arrived in Moab, where we met my parents at the great condo they had rented, and had dinner at Eddie McStiffs, a local brewpub. I had pizza. It was very good.
Tomorrow we journey to Arches National Park, and attempt to drink enough water to compensate for being out in the desert when it is 107F.

Monday, August 13, 2007

Actual Knitting Content!

I came back from Utah in a knitting funk (trip log to start later today, promise). I had high hopes for knitting on the trip, and I excitedly cast-on for the Ruffled Tuxedo Tank in the car somewhere in the middle of southeastern Oregon. I had decided to knit it in the round, so I cast on something like 240 stitches, and carefully joined them into the round. And I knit away, for about 1.5 inches or so before getting bored with the car knitting and just observing the scenery. The next night, whilst staying at an air-conditioned condo in Moab, I got the top back out, and low and behold I was knitting a mobius. Eek. I'll have you know that I've never twisted something in the round on circular needles. On DPNs maybe, years ago, but we can agree that DPNs are a tad more difficult to control and have quite the mind of their own. I was demoralized by this, and didn't have the heart to rip it out and do that evil casting-on again, so it's still sitting around, making a lovely gauge swatch (silver lining!). That same night, after saying "to hell with you" to the tank top, I started a simple toe-up stockinette sock, but I didn't get past the toe increases before we left the condo, and after that there really wasn't much time for such fiddly knitting. If I'd have been charging up the foot, or at any other point in the sock, I think I'd have made some headway...So, that is also taking up space on the coffee table. No photos. It's all too painful.
So, I returned to Seattle beaten and bruised, with my knitting mojo all but vanished. All that was on the needles was complicated or tragic, and something had to be done. Wednesday I cast on for a Purl scarf in red Manos: This has become my new work project, and progress is fast and rewarding. Thursday I cast on some felted clogs for my grandmother's Christmas present, and tonight I finished them aside from the felting:

Talk about instant gratification! That's two Christmas projects finished already, and it's only mid-August. Full project report to follow post-felting, but here's a quick summary. These are the Fibertrends Felted Clogs, and I used Knit Picks Wool of the Andes in Amethyst Heather (dark) and Iris Heather (light). This is my fifth pair of these and I love making them. Great pattern and very quick to knit.
I promise to post some pretty Utah photos tomorrow, and soon I'll disclose the results of the natural dyeing experiment that Anne-Marie and I conducted yesterday...much to share, much to share! Stay tuned!

Wednesday, August 08, 2007

Re-entry

I'm back! Actually, I've been back in Seattle since Sunday night, but as I don't have all my trip photos yet (I had to download them onto my dad's laptop during the trip because I have a small camera card, so I'm waiting for the photo cd to arrive from PA) and I have NO knitting to talk about, I haven't posted. Consider this photo a sign of things to come - I intend to do a day-by-day trip report as soon as I have the photos! This one is from Canyonlands National Park, and yes, I've gone cowgirl...